I know this isn’t quite the appropriate time to write a travelogue-post but what the hell–India has been at war ever since the UPA jokers took over with the only difference that this latest attack has been admittedly the most dastardly.
So I’m back after a 3-day holiday to Waynad, and eager to share some fleeting observations of God’s Own Country.
Geography and Stuff
Waynad opens up to Karnataka from the south at two points. If you travel from Mysore, you hit Mananthavady via the Nagarhole/Kutta forest on the H.D. Kote route. Alternatively, you turn right from Gundlupet and hit Sultan Bathery (funny, some folks call it Sultan’s Battery) named after Tipu Sultan who raped that part of Kerala.
Stray Observations
Greenery abounds. Nature-poetry cliches like vast stretches of verdant greenery enclosed by imposing rocks come to your mind when you drive around Waynad. Relatively unspoilt although the forest-mountains are slowly being cut up thanks to a greedy proliferation of “natural” resorts and spas. Misty mountains. Great views from the ghat section near Lakkidi.
Smooth roads. The Kerala government seems to know that their coffers from tourism money won’t keep flowing with money until they ensure good roads. Commendable. Unlike Karnataka where roads are pathetic. You only need to cross the state border to know the difference that stares at you from the ground, literally.
Amazing road connectivity. Almost every town/city has at least three different approaches.
Very lazy life. For someone from traffic-jammed Bangalore, this is inexplicable. When people aren’t busy travelling in one of the mofussil buses, they do…nothing. No industries or factories apart from a few tea (coffee?) estates. Wonder how they build those beautiful houses.
En route to Kalpetta, saw a huge board that said SP’s BUNGALOW.
The local folks speak only Malayalam. And all those Mallu jokes are valid–their English sounds like Malayalam. The standard response to any of my queries: Ari ille (I don’t know). I take that back a bit. Some of the guys, especially at the hotels, fruit/Ayurveda vendors managed to speak broken Kannada. One guy told me the secret: 75% of our income comes from Bangalore. Very pleasant and genial to outsiders.
Food is a major problem. Beef seems to be available in abundance. Even the “posh” restaurants have no clue on how to make the standard “north Indian” cuisine that we take for granted in Bangalore.
Politics and Religion
Are inseparable here. Both Islam and Christianity thrive here, although I’d say Christianity seems to dominate. Every road has at least 5 or more Churches. Every sect of Christendom has a place in Waynad. Presbyterian, Anglican, Roman Catholic, Syrian, Pentecostals…every single denomination is represented in various degrees. Every road turn displays a Cross embedded in the ground. The locals unfailingly show one or the other religious symbol: a Cross-keychain, a photo of Virgin Mary affixed on a jeep’s windshield, and so on. Every Church has a byline: affiliated to (?) the CSI (Church of South India) like schools show off their accreditation. On my return, several policemen took to manning the highway traffic at Meenangadi. I was stranded for more than 40 minutes. A few yards later I saw an unending troop of people carrying some umbrella-like things with a huge Cross on top the umbrella. Four guys with “flowing” black robes (looked like Priests) led the troop, accompanied as it was by loud singing in Malayalam. A friendly local told me it was the festival of the “Cheerch.”
On my way to the Banasura dam, a journey of about 40 Kms from where I was staying, every single light pole, and almost all the large trees had LONG LIVE IUML (Indian Union Mulsim League) painted on them. Posters of a “Hajj-returned” eminence (his name was written in Malayalam but he was an M.P.) were splashed across the route. There was also an announcement of some kind of a rally to be held sometime this month. That part of Waynad’s geography was dominated by Mosques, which seriously outnumbered Churches. I can recall seeing at least 20 “Madrassahs” and an “Islamic computer training institute.”
The assorted DYFIs, SSFYs, and AITUCs figured at random but were mostly unnoticeable. Wonder if Kerala is really the Communist paradise that is made out to be.
PS: In all my three days of stay, I covered at least 200 Kms. I must have passed through most of the villages and towns. I didn’t see a single temple.
The Kaveri Delta in Tamil Nadu – though preponderantly Hindu for now – is passing through a similar phenomenon. My wife and I went to the Siva-Parvati temple in Kumbakonam for pilgrimage two years ago. The spires and domes of the Abrahamic faith proclaimed themselves throughout the journey. They can make for unpleasant viewing – the buildings are often painted in rather loud colors, with the “gaint cut-outs” of the benefactor proudly displayed. Often times, they are accompanied by party symbols to which these benefactors belong. The temples are notably missing. I asked our driver, a local Hindu – who told us that the churches and mosques are always built closer to the highway while the temples are confined to small buildings within villages. The land closer to the highway is more expensive.
I also came to know that in the Kaveri region, churches are not only denominational (in the Chirstian sense), but also could represent caste loyalties – so much for the promise of ‘egalitarianism’
It is a disturbing picture overall – the new ‘saving’ faith, new money, old caste, millenial politics – all pressed together. All making for the feeling that violence and nihilism are around the corner
Kerala has wiped out hinduism and replaced it with multiple totalitarian regimes.
Harbinger of things to come over the next 20 years.
what is this siva-parvathi temple in kumbakonam?
In TN,the conflict between brahmanas and ‘upper’ non-brahminical castes is the problem.
In kerala,Tipu and missionaries have done the damage in Wynad.This is somewhat remote area.The dominant nairs and ezhavas are absent here.
Hinduism has thrived in agrarian socieies .
In karnataka,the dominant peasant castes have provided political solidity.
We are facing a grave threat.Atleast,Karnataka seems to be geared up.Hinduism (Which is nothing but the life of indian people in all its ramifications) will have to buck up to withstand this onslaught from mlecchas.
Oh! Those peaceful days when NDA ruled.
Good observations.