Preface
What’s common to Stratford-upon-Avon, Westminster Abbey, Mount Rushmore, Drumcliffe, Walden Pond State Reservation, Alcatraz Island, Jack London State Historic Park, Hauteville House, and Zentralfriedhof among others? Equally, what’s common to Hampi, Badami, Bhoja Shala, Ambernath, Grishneshwar, and Ellora? The former represent vibrant showcases of the deep commitment a nation displays in preserving the memory of people and places in which these nations have much to be proud of. The Walden Pond State Reservation is spread over 462 acres of land to honour the memory of just one man, a man who would’ve probably committed suicide if he saw the America of today. It’s also a tribute to the people of America who continue to preserve his legacy in this manner. The latter examples represent the exact opposite of the former. They are classic instances and living reminders of the mass assault on the symbols, monuments and memories of an ancient and hallowed civilization. The magnificent fort at Chitradurga is encroached by an ugly mob of huts that completely blanket one side of the mountain while Hampi, a ridiculous apparition of a UNESCO World Heritage Site is a free-for-all haven: the Bahamani barbarian hordes who physically vandalized it couldn’t have done a better job. And so it is with the Ellora caves, which I visited on a recent trip, which also included Ajanta caves and the Grishneswar temple.
Ellora
To be fair, Ellora caves don’t suffer from the same shocking apathy that characterizes most historical monuments across India. However, the difference in the apathy differs only in degree. Together with the Ajanta caves, Ellora, a UNESCO World Heritage Site is one of the world’s finest architectural splendours.
The 34 “caves,” built between the 5th and 10th century represent the perfect model of Indian rock-cut architecture and stand unrivalled till date. They are really not caves in the strict sense of the word but temples and sculptures carved out through the basalt-rich Charanandri mountain located some 30 Kilometres from Aurangabad in Maharashtra. These artistic expressions of the finest of Indian spirit are spread across an enormous 2-Kilometre expanse.
The Crown Jewel of Ellora
The most spectacular of all of Ellora architecture is undoubtedly the Kaliasanath temple. I use “temple” here to mean both Hindu and Buddhist. To begin with, here’s a side view.
[Ed: Click the thumbnail to view the full size of the picture]
The Kailasanath temple in itself is a study not just of art and scultpure but a living instance of what Ananda Coomaraswamy said about Indian art: its impersonal nature and how an all-encompassing religion like Santana Dharma brings out the best of expressions in every field of human endeavour. It takes several days to make a detailed and serious study of this one temple. This view shows the 90-foot tall central pillar that’s always visible from any corner of the temple complex.
The Alas inscription dated 770 AD tells us that the Kailasanath temple was commissioned in 757 AD (or 773 AD ) by Krishna I, an uncle of the founder of the Rashtrakuta dynasty, Dantidurga, and took about 150 years to complete. Because Krishna I was a staunch Shaivaite, he modelled the temple after Mount Kailasa, the abode of Lord Shiva. The Kailasanatha temple in the height of its pristine glory–and I don’t doubt it–must have recreated Mount Kailasa because archeological evidence points to the use of white plaster all over, signifying the snow-clad abode of Lord Shiva. While the entire temple complex looks like it’s a cluster of temples and pillars and sprawling halls, all of this actually was carved out by vertically excavating some 200,000 tonnes (some folks say 400,000 tonnes) out of a single, mammoth rock. The greater and tougher achievement is that this was excavated, not constructed.
The knowledge of mathematics, engineering, building technology, craftsmanship, artistry, design, planning, and what we today call “project execution” of those days is certainly unfathomable to the present mind–it helps to recall that this “project” was executed over 150 years and spanned several generations of experts. If you are a trivia/quiz buff, the Kailasanath temple covers twice the area of the Parthenon in Athens.
This singular temple is enough to teach us almost all of our major Puranas, Gods and Goddesses. In a way, it is the architectural encyclopaedia of Hinduism. Impeccable sculptures of Nandi who stands at the entrance, the Indra Sabha, the awesome majesty of Ravana trying to lift the Kailasa mountain, the Sapta Matrukas (the Seven Mother Goddesses), the various avatars of Vishnu (see the picture below), celestial damsels, and the Rudra ganas (attendants of Shiva) are enough to teach you pretty much everything about the vitals of Hindu mythology. While they do that, they also leave you awestruck at the intimate knowledge these architects, artists, and artisans had about Sanatana Dharma and how they used stone to bring it to life. Carving such immaculate works of art was both an expression and the fulfilment of the religious and spiritual needs of these artisans as well as a highly sacred duty they felt fortunate to perform. But the Red History of India says they were the oppressed classes who beaten with whips and chains and made to work. Aside, that kind of work produces faceless skyscrapers not this.
[Picture: The Varaha (Boar) avatar of Lord Vishnu]
The reason why I dwelt so much upon just the Kailasanath temple is simply because it is the grandest of all in Ellora. Its richness of art, vividity in depicting life in all its moods and possibilities, and the sense of sheer elevation it brings to the mind dwarfs the rest of the caves. To illustrate what I mean, the following sculpture is an enduring reflection of the genius of the artist who created it.
This amazing scultpure shows the lighter side of life–Nandi, (Bull) Lord Shiva’s vehicle being tormented by pesky monkeys–one pulling his tail, the other his horns, yet another yanking his leg–while the overall scene will bring a hearty grin on even a grown-up’s face. After you come out of the Kailasanath temple, you can’t help feeling that minus this, the overall grandeur of the temple would be the poorer minus this.
This doesn’t mean other structures/temples/sculptures in Ellora are qualitatively inferior–they all are consistent in proportion, form, artistry, and beauty but in terms of breadth, depth and richness, the Kailasanath temple is truly the crown jewel of Ellora. The Buddhist caves though are uniformly boring. This is not to berate them but they cannot realistically be categorized as works of art. They were designed to be viharas (monasteries) and sculptures there are merely by way of an embellishment. More on this when I talk about Ajanta.
Note: While I abhor the copyright game, it is polite to ask me if you want to use these images.
Continued in Part 2
Tags: Ajanta & Ellora, Architecture, Art, Buddhism, Commentary, Ellora, Field Notes, Hinduism, History, India, Indian History, Kailasanath Temple, Kailasanath Temple: Ellora, Preserving Heritage, Preserving the Past, Rashtrakutas, Sanatana Dharma, Sculpture, Travel, Travelogue, UNESCO World Heritage Site
Gr8 article and a lesson in historical perspective about these timeless symbols of Bhartiya sanskriti and sabhyataa! One of the reasons for our indifference and lack of respect & pride towards these national monuments arises out of the ‘red’ and ‘secularist’ version of history taught in our schools, colleges & universities, esp. that has tried hard to negate the existence and put down the pre-Islamic invasion India…meaning the Bharatvarsh as it existed, before the desert-cult marauders ran amok and later, as they say, the last nail in the coffin was driven by the ruling Britishers, hell-bent on ‘civilizing’ the natives and turning them into pen-pushers ‘babu’ log through the Maculey system of education that now permeates the whole sector of ‘education’ in India. The simple fact is we Indians have had no identity, per se, as we were, for a whole millennia, under the rule of people who in essence were alien to this land! So no surprise that we’ve never shown any interest or respect for our Sanatam-dharmi cultural heritage.
Excellent Post
Kailas is no doubt the grandest, probably in whole of India with Kandhariya Mahadev at Khajuraho competing closely.
However I am surprised that you have not mentioned the equally exquisite set of Jain caves at Ellora. Indrasabha (cave 32) is a fine example of superb craftsmanship.
Regarding Buddhist caves, Vishwakarma cave needs special mention because of its beautiful façade and this being the only Chaitya griha in Ellora.
I think the terminology adopted by British Indologists to identify monuments in Hindu, Buddhist and Jain categories creates unnecessary bias in the mind of a modern Indian. Religion in those days was more of a lifestyle and did not have the possessive streak that we have come to associate with the religion in present times. We should remember that the labels Hindu, Buddhist and Jain are strictly in reference to the personalities/symbolism the sculptures represent and do not necessarily reflect on the religion of artisans, patrons, sponsors or even the worshippers.
Brilliant Field Notes
Loaded with well researched, illustrated information that it made me virtually go round the place.A must visit for all lovers of art.writeups such as this help our children too to read ,understand,appreciate and feel deep sense of pride about our rich Indian heritage and Hindu culture.
“This singular temple is enough to teach us almost all of our major Puranas, Gods and Goddesses. In a way, it is the architectural encyclopaedia of Hinduism.”
“Carving such immaculate works of art was both an expression and the fulfilment of the religious and spiritual needs of these artisans as well as a highly sacred duty they felt fortunate to perform. But the Red History of India says they were the oppressed classes who beaten with whips and chains and made to work. Aside, that kind of work produces faceless skyscrapers not this.” Just loved these lines.They must be highlighted.
sandeep
We are greatful to you for putting up this post.
Thank you so much.Waiting for the next one.
Dear all, look at this link on Madurai meenakshi temple,
http://www.view360.in/virtualtour/madurai/
This is probably the greatest temple if I may say, in India.My heart bleeds when you look at all the vandalisim done to the temple and it’s paintings, in the name of renovations carried out by amateurish so called artists.It will take more than a week to see this temple.I also highly recommend all to visit Kumbakonam, the great temple town in TN. You will not be disappointed.
I stayed for 1 1/2 year at outskirts in chennai. During this time i have seen almost all major temples and town. The mahabalipuram, magnificent and indeed beautiful temples and cave structure, well maintained being a UNESCO site. The Lord Shiva Temple at Tirukkalukundaram(one near main town and one on top of Hill) with a legend attached to it, indeed beautifull, but as usual not maintained. The famous nataraja temple of Chidambaram, when i visited it was under control of dikshitkars, beautiful where Government is fightinf for take over. The Brideshwara temple at Tanjavur, a architectural wonder well maintained being a unesco site, the saraswati mahal library is worth a visit. The temples at Kumbakonam all maginificent and beautiful, all funds are taken by Govt, The samadhi of saint Thyagaraja at Kaveri river banks , i felt it is neglected and not maintained. The temples at Kanchipuram only kanchi kamkoti temple is managed by mutt is in Good state rest all temples not in Good State. Further the beautiful ancient paintings are not maintained, murals not maintained at all temples. The Lord Shiva temple at Tiruvannnamalai, is indeed beautiful.All temples indeed tell in itself a story of artchitecture wonder, imagination, devotion and intense love to God, all beautiful legacy for powerless Hindus by our Great ancestors. I deeply felt anguished at each visit to every temple by road through our transport that everywhere the apostles of christ are competing at every renowned Temple and place of pilgrimage for increasing their numbers, almost now every village has a church. The Golden temple of laxmi at Vellore is indeed most beautiful managed by amma and her devotees. The pilgrimage to rameshwaram indeed to travel on the place where lord Ramas feet traded was a lifetime experience, the temple is not maintained. Plenty of Churches have come up there. The pentecoastal mission is very active in this place and every where.Further one church is standing tall on a moutain with white cross alover giving competition to Lord Shiva, it is near a famous temple, the name of temple i cannot recollect.The story of churchs deception and conversion was covered by B R Haran , posted at haindava few months ago. I felt really india has hidden enemies, its own people have joined hands with foreigners and missinaries to destroy the invaluable heritage.
i hope we all who understand India and its glorious past should take it to masses with proofs without caring about mainstream medim, Govt, this will be a fitting tribute to our worthy ancestors
Lucky it was hidden in the caves else it would have been destroyed by Mohammedians who came from a region with no art, just sand and camels. India was known for its galaxy of ruins, where are they today? Monuments like this remind us that India today has retrogressed…Where are the modern equivalents? One just sees ugly, funcitonal architecture no art anymore….
I mean “functional”
Larissa,
The Mohammadeans came here, too. Wait for my next in this series.
The variety and complex temple constrution in India is so varied and magnificient, it defies description. the Hoysala architecture,the ultimate in carving sculptures. KSNarasimhasvamy the poet of Mysore mallige says in one line – kallige bayasida roopava todisi -roughly the stone given the desired form. I have been visiting all such places and feel I have not seen enough of each one. But the apathy of our people and administrators is appaling to say the least. Rashtra kutas were ruling from maanyakheta the present malakhed in Bidar district of karnataka. their predecessors chalukyas ,contemporaries were all great patrons of art and architecture. one life is not enough to see all this. magnificient temples and structures esp in northern India have been destroyed and are in the process of being destroyed. we are only rueing and nothing else.
I have put some in my blog – metikurke.blogger.
Well all these are what remains saved from destruction from Mohammadean hands and give a small glimpse of the grandeur–imagine the extent of art and architecture was destroyed over the course of centuries by Muslims…..The north does not have much architecture left at all–its mostly been destroyed with Muslim monuments and monuments built on top–the southern regions which were spared has preserved a great deal of architecture…..When will Hindus ever build great structures again?
Larissa, we Hindus are too busy renovating the muslim monuments, to ever build great structures again. The projects undertaken by Archaelogical Survey of India (ASI) are proof of that.
“A nation which has forgotten its past can have no future.”
– Sir Winston Churchill
Sandeep,
I suddenly realised that the name of your blog is “Rediscovery of India” a clear rejoinder to “Discovery of India”. I was in high school when I read Nehru’s book. If someone reads such books as teenager, it leaves a lasting impression. With no exposure to critical evaluation of such material, the impression we so get, forms the basis for our attitude. It now occurs to me that I must re-read the books to evaluate them in the new light. I think it would be a good suggestion to ask people to Re-read, a habit hardly a few have. Do you more pictures of your visit?
[...] Field Notes 1 on Ellora for a [...]
The Kailash temple is indeed the most majestic temple in Ellora. You rightly said, the most amazing fact is that it was ‘carved out’ from a single rock. It s difficult to even imagine, let alone actually executing it. It is as much an artistic as an engineering feet.
To Rashmi – It is indeed sad to see our culture getting dominated by monotheistic religions, who believe that they are in possession of absolute truth. I was saddened to learn that Chrches have sprouted up all over the Tamilnadu.
I was looking at this site, the fellow appears to be an avangelist – . the guy says so many preposterous things about Hinduism and its philosophy, as well as talking about caste system, as if it is something we should be ashamed of. AS if it gives him the right to come India and try to convert the poor people.
If Sandeep deems fit, he may rebut his lies, which he is presenting as absolute truths. A person like him who has in his command such a depth of knowledge as well as analytical skills, must at least expose the underlying lies of such preaching.
[...] Field Notes 1 and [...]